Nope I'm not that guy. I've seen some of his video's and postings before. I use 1994klr250 on all the motorcycle forums I'm on. It was my first motorcycle and I seem to just keep on buying more and not get rid of any of them. I'm also on advrider here: ADVrider

And on Youtube, I don't edit anything, I just post random stuff from riding.
https://www.youtube.com/user/1982fordf100/videos

 

So here's a few more vids:

A pretty simple overview of sprockets, I realize I forgot to mention boosting sprocket life with even/odd number toothed combos.

I realize this one is a bit controversial on here. From posters reports here, the Megabomb doesn't hurt Torque/Horsepower, but it may not boost them either. At least it's a shiny if not.

I did figure out how it works, it has nothing to do with resonance. It works by trapping a small amount of exhaust gas in the bomb which then pulls the last little bit of exhaust out of the cylinder as it cools. Essentially, it creates negative pressure in the cylinder and boosts the scavenging effect.

In theory, at higher RPMs jetting effects make the exhaust gasses ignore the holes which lead into the bomb. More or less because at higher velocity it is much more difficult for fluids to change direction. We'll see how well it works when I do a Dyno.


And lastly, I made a video discussing how hard it is to fully mod the KLX:

I should be riding this bike soon, but the mod videos will continue for some time. I recorded quite a few of them over the season....

 

From my charts, it looks like if the AFR is correct, the Megabomb+PC4 makes the same TRQ numbers and better HP curve/numbers than the stock header + DGR. I have not Dyno tested stock header+PC4.. So I do not have a direct comparison of megabomb vs stock header.. Perhaps someday I'll do that test.. This is data on 250cc..

 

That's good to hear.

There is a lot of stuff that will affect my results: the 351, the K&N Filter, the porting, the crankcase breather, the larger intake valves, and the TM36.

Since I have access to two KLXs, the other with just a 351, a TM33(34), and a Q4, I hope to test both the same day and compare. Mainly to isolate the effects from the porting and valves. I'll try to figure out jetting before hand for a few different part combinations.

Of course this depends on how much time on the Dyno I need/how much I'm willing to spend renting time. Plus, the off chance that my brother decides to mod his engine before I get around to it.

 

A while since I've posted, sorry about that it's been a bit of a rough start with the bike the past two months.

Anyhow, here's a few mods I've done:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ieJLHY2Uew8
I drilled out the crankcase breather as per....someone on here's advice. This was a while back in January, and since MrDuh already did a video on it I held off for a while.


Krieger Cam Chain Tensioner. Great device, though I admit it is a bit difficult to determine precisely how tight the tensioner should be. 'Hard' is a vague term, the difficulty felt more gradual like pulling a rubber band rather than an immediate hard point.

I tensioned until I couldn't turn any harder with my hand, then fiddled until it 'felt' right. I can say it is very obvious when the chain is too loose, but not exactly clear when the chain is too tight. There's a good 3-4 full turns where it 'seems' to work, without any noise from too tight a chain tension or too loose.


One of my more favorite mods, particularly for the severely underbraked 06-07 models. Especially if you're one of the crazies who ADV tour with it.

I did initially plan to go with a 280mm 'Extreme V' rotor, since it is probably more appropriate for off-roading, and can still use a disc guard. But I really liked the appearance of this one, and so My whole bike's color scheme is based off this rotor.


Radiator Guards and braces. I was pretty happy with this one as well, for it's look, and the potential to prevent catastrophe.





So then I did...er....well sort of ended up doing quite a few videos on putting the bike back together after all these mods. I actually had quite the hard time getting the bike to idle smooth, and tested for every potential cause of rough idle.


Since I touched nearly every part of the bike except the crankshaft, and stripped the bike to the frame, I made a video about my concerns.


So it begins, this and the following two videos were cut from around 40 hours of footage of test runs, experimentation, and theories. It's a bit out of order, oddly to make sense from a continuity standpoint. This video was about most of the potential mechanical issues.


This one covers most of the electrical tests/issues. I got less vigilant about recording since this was about a month in to trying to figure out the problem, and so I missed out on footage checking for shorted lines, a working battery and other things.


And I finally figure it out. When Bill Blue did my head porting and new valves, he mentioned that he would take care of the valve lash himself, so I didn't bother to check it. Perhaps there was a miscommunication of some sort, but things happen.

 

Wow, it really didn't seem like it's been that long since I've updated this thread.

Well, I've got a few more videos out there about mods to the KLX, so here they are.

First up, I've got a video covering the IMS Footpegs, Grip Tape, and the Works Connection Frame Guards

Then the Magura Hydraulic Clutch, a surprisingly great mod.

Next, Blinkers. Well...specifically the TuffLite's but they aren't sold anymore sadly. Still, I cover a lot of information useful for swapping to LED indicators.

Then, I made a less serious video about the flashy Zeta components available to the KLX.

Followed by a video on engine painting (I get asked this one a lot on Youtube)

And finally, today I got around to doing a video on the Trailtech Vapor computer.

 

Have any advice on the best mod that's not commonly done on this thread?

 

My money would be on the hydraulic clutch for the best uncommon mod.
It ain't cheap, but since I've been riding with one on my 2T, I really want one for the KLX.

 

Definitely the Hydraulic Clutch. It's one of my favorite mods, though it is a bit pricey for something that isn't necessary for the function of the bike.


I'd say go for it once you've got your basic guards in place (skid plate, hand guards), 351, Muffler, Pegs, Proper Handlebars, and Suspension. Though always do suspension first, that does more for how well your bike performs than anything else.

 

Re the hydraulic clutch. It looks pretty expensive, but seems like a good mod to do, if you have the spare funds to do it. A hydraulic clutch, I understand, will not vary the engagement point (friction zone position) as temps change - the friction zone is supposed to stay in the exact same spot all the time. Also, typically the hydraulic clutch has a lighter 'pull', so it's easier to use.

I ended up going with this: Moose Racing Easy-Pull Clutch System - Motorcycle Superstore
It's not hydraulic, but is does offer an easier pull, which helps me ride longer without strain. I also have my clutch lever modified so I can only fit 2 fingers on it - I like to have my outer 2 fingers wrapped around the grip, and then use the other two for the clutch. Having the easy pull makes the 2-finger clutching easier. I do occasionally find the friction zone position changing as the bike temp changes. Another benefit of the easy pull is that the friction zone is actually larger, which makes clutch engagement smoother, which is handy going up a steep hill and you need some precise clutch work.