So here is the best recipe for best power curves to date(4/2017): Edited on 5/13/2016 to add info about using Keihin jets and N1TC as well as results without MCM.



NOTE: All bikes should use the stock slide (undrilled lift hole) and stock slide spring. DO NOT use the DJ slide spring! If your slide lift port has been drilled (7/64ths or bigger), it must be JB welded closed and very carefully redrilled with a 3/32 bit. If you want more room for error while drilling, use a 5/64 bit.
Needle choices: Best-DJ2206 kit (DN0352 needle), Good-DJ2152 kit (DN0228 needle), Useable- N1TC needle, or for #2 below, a shimmed Stock needle.

1. Lidless + MCM or not + Stock Header with Slip-on Silencer OR KLX300 exhaust system(uncorked):Use a DJ140 or K152 main jet, needle clip at 1N, stock slide lift hole/port and stock slide spring - for max power near sea level.


2. Lidless + MCM/NON-MCM + Larger-than-stock Header (Full aftermarket performance exhaust system) : Use DJ144 or K158 main jet, clip set at 1N, stock slide lift port and stock slide spring - for max power near sea level. Alternatively, acceptable performance can be found by use of the stock slide, stock spring, and stock NNLA needle shimmed shorter with 2 DJ washers.

Notes:
To use 1N ( top most notch) you will be super-gluing the DJ washers to the top of the c-clip.

In each case, a larger pilot jet should be installed to gain increases in throttle response and acceleration at all, and from all, RPM's. Use a #40 for near sea level and up - #38 if your bike never goes below 3000' ASL.. Fuel screw MUST be set correctly to realize benefits. The correct setting is midway between idle drops. (Correct setting for a #40 near sea level has been found to usually be 1.75 - 2.00 turns out..)
#40 kawi part no 92064-1108
#38 kawi part no 92064-1050




3. Correct (re-calculate) main jet size for other altitudes using this calculator - Main Jet Correction

Use of this calculator:
My Dyno charted setups are at 750ft with an SAE standard day of 77F - So, interpolating off the chart and I get:
1. Baseline of DJ144/1N is (144 / .99) = 145.45
2. Baseline of DJ140/1N is (140 /.99) = 141.41

So, for example.. Lets say your bike is set up to make use of DJ140/1N/Lidless, but you're at 4500ft and it averages 68F during the months you ride. Take the baseline for 140/1N (141.41) X your table correction factor (.95) and you get 134.34 - So, to feel the "biggy" power, you'll need to be running DJ134/1N lidless..

Now look at all the different altitudes and temps that carry a correction factor close to your .95 .. This will tell you how much variance in altitude and temps your DJ134/1N/Lidless should operate well with...

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[SIZE="5"]Edit 4/2017: All the information below has been superseded and is now obsolete. Follow the above instructions for power levels that exceed all those below. I will leave the below info on the post for historical purposes only. [/SIZE]

[SIZE="5"]Final setup is with the needle on 1N and the two washers super glued onto the top of the clip with the stock slide spring and stock slide lift hole/port. This keeps WOT AFR correct for max power throughout the RPM range. TRQ, throttle response, and power ramp-up are improved. It important to note that the DJ144 chart below may NOT show MAX horsepower due to the run ending at 9-9.2k rpm. The HP was starting to rise again just before the throttle was chopped. The power pulls strongly to ignition cutoff (10.5k RPM) and this setup produces a strong HP curve above 9000 rpms and perhaps more peak HP than the chart shows.[/SIZE]


[SIZE="6"]Edit 5/16: Latest dyno chart (DJ144/1N) does in fact show the expected increases -
23.64 HP, 16.28 TRQ ! There is obviously a little overfueling taking place from 5.5k to 6k that would be fixed with reinstallation of the stock slide spring. So, more to come..Clik on the image for bigger size..[/SIZE]





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[SIZE="4"]Latest run: Using a DJ144 main jet and DJ 228 needle set to 2N - Best-To-Date HP number even though mid range is too rich, which costs power. The idea was to get the entire RPM range to stay at or just below 13:1 Obviously the midrange still went too rich.. Nonetheless, the Bike runs like a Batouttahell !! Since a simple clip change to 1N should raise low and mid AFR by about 1 point, and is the top most notch, this is where I will end this testing. Given the data, I expect DJ144/1N to produce more than 22.67HP and at least 16.09 lb.ft. TRQ.[/SIZE]



[SIZE="4"]Using the DJ 150 with the previous run using the DJ140 - The 150 is way too rich. Even though the peak numbers are practically identical, the curves are not and favor the DJ140. The missing data is due to a momentary ignition cut out that afflicts my bike from time to time. Ashame it occurs at the exact point (8500) I was trying to keep a close eye on.. Oh well.. All conditions and mods are same as other runs..[/SIZE]

150vs40%203N_zps4ba515om.jpg?t=1429663479

[SIZE="4"]Below: the midrange went a little too rich and the top end went a little too lean. [/SIZE]

FMF%20DJ140%2040Pilot%203N_zpssemjdkhi.jpg?t=1429044909

[SIZE="4"]Too rich on bottom but getting closer to "correct" (target 12.8:1) on top.[/SIZE]



[SIZE="5"]FMF is in BLUE. Best TRQ number of all testing so AFR needs to be kept as close to 13:1 as possible during the low and mid RPM ranges at WOT. [/SIZE]



[SIZE="5"]Below: FMF is, again, in BLUE[/SIZE]

 

From todays run - It's quite evident that the DJ140 is still not large enough to keep the AFR below 13:1 ..
Going to 3N cleaned up the overly fat low end very nicely..

 

I like that green torque curve in table #3.
Why is it so different from others?

 

That is the curve for the Stock Header + DGR slipon. It, and the other DGR charts, had me mesmerized for quite a while too. Pay carefully attention to the RPM range that you actually use while riding and decide for yourself.. With the DGR, on the road, you loose top speed, you loose passing power - and you loose a usable powerband over about 8.5K.. DGR curves are nice to look at, but IMO, that's all they're good for.. I know the numbers smell pretty close between the two - they aren't . If my dyno operator would have revved the FMF system out to 10K, I think the difference would have been 3 or more HP..

 

It would seem every DJ jet size is about .1 difference on the top end AFR. That ever lasting lean spike at 8500 is troubling.. Perhaps the FMF system has the engine drawing extra heavily at that small range.. If so, perhaps a little more top end can be found if that spike is mediated.. At any rate, spiking .5+ lean is unacceptable.. Looks like a DJ 146 could get 12.7:1 with the lean spike going to 13.2:1 ...?

If all this biggy jet stuff seems weird, remember the DJ kit was not designed for lid off operation - as the DJ jetting specialist told me, I am in uncharted waters.

 

Understood.
I think my kind of riding would like the "early torque" setup.
I'm currently using a KLX300 head pipe/muffler(1" hole in the muffler cap).
Perhaps a 250 head pipe/modified 250 muffler is worth a try.

 

Well Eric, are you still running a DJ132 main? Stock Pilot? Where is you needle clip at this point ? Did you ever pull off the lid?

 

I am back to a DJ124 main, needle in 3rd clip, trying out a 38 pilot, lid off.
When trying the DJ128 or 132 main, i would get a miss when asking for a lot of gas at low rpm. I am at sea level. A few weeks back, going up Mt Hamilton(4000 ft) on a cold, rainy afternoon, it was worse to the point of almost unridable.
The bike will spend lots of time running at higher elevations, so I am jetting with that in mind.
I will get a DJ126 soon, and give it a try.

 

Ok, Eric, Neonarc worked out a carb setup for 5k ASL. I only have data for setups near sea level.. Also, I'm not skilled or qualified to troubleshoot - there is just too much that can be wrong - latest finding (Also by Neonarc) is shaft seal failure causing bad carburetion.. About all I can offer is known working setups near sea level.. I suppose if a known working setup doesn't work, it would be time to look at other issues..?

 

BTW, I have aquired a DJ146 and DJ150 from my dyno shop and installed the DJ150.. I know this sounds crazy, but I guess that damned huge stock MAJ pours way too much air into the fuel just above the main jet in the emulsion tube(also known as the Needle Jet) when you run lidless..

Regardless, I have to follow the Dyno data and the DJ150 should put top end AFR at 12.5:1 with the 8500rpm spike going only up to 13:1.. Bike runs great - no carburetion issues at all.. If this keeps AFR between 12:1 and 13:1 @ WOT, I should have all the HP and TRQ the bike can produce in its' current state.. I'll be done !