Hey everyone. I just did the 13T front and 45T back sprocket mod with a 108 link chain this weekend with my 2007 KLX250s. The only thing I had to do that we are not sure about was to flip the rear chain adjuster over. Where as before the mod is was on maybe 3 with the "handle" piece on the adjuster sticking to the back and slightly up, with the mod we had to put it on 7 with the "handle" piece pointing downwards. We did this because if we would have had the "handle" piece on the adjuster pointing upwards on 7 where it needs to be to get the chain to the proper tightness (which would make it catching something while riding harder) it would have been hitting the bolt that holds on the chain guard and wouldn't have been able to put the chain guard back on.

Has anyone else ran into this problem, and if so, did you flip the adjuster upside down or do you just run with no chain guard? It seems weird that you can't use the higher numbers on the adjuster with the "handle" piece of the adjuster sticking up so it won't catch on things while riding because the chain guard bolt is in the way.

Thanks for any advice you have!

 

I think you'll find the OEM "chainguard" is somewhat of a joke...or at least a lawyer driven requirement in this case..."joke"..."lawyer"...kind of redundant. If you ride off road, one stick or bush will either destroy the chainguard or continually push it into the tire. For street-only use, it can survive, and those guys who ride pavement-only while wearing white capri pants will appreciate the lack of visible "chain sling" while they visit their local Starbucks.


OK...that last part was a joke and not intended to demean the SF crowd. But seriously if you're going to ride anything approaching trail riding, the stock chainguard will be one of the first victims.

On your adjuster...yes...it's a good idea to flip the long tang to the top and not let the tang hang down for a good rock hit. It's built this way probably because normally the chain would be slap worn out before that tang would hang down that far. They don't take into consideration that some people tune handling by running as long as possible a chain length to affect wheelbase, or that some go back and forth between different front sprockets.

 

Thanks for that info! I wasn't sure if the chain guard was a requirement for getting my bike registered or not, main reason I was going to leave it on. I don't imagine the chain adjuster being upside down will come loose or anything, my only concern is that something will hit it on a trail and knock it loose, and then i'll be screwed.

Maybe i'll ride it a while like it is and see if there are any issues with anything moving (which, again, there shouldn't be I would hope as the rear axle is all tightened up and torqued), and once it's inspected again in the next month go back and take the guard off and flip the adjuster over again.

Anyone else have any thoughts on this I would welcome any advice!

 

I haven't had my caffeine yet today... Are you talking about the snail adjusters on the rear axle?

 

The rear axle chain adjuster (I guess it's the snail adjuster you're referring to - I attached a pic of what it looks like), I think it goes from 1-9 and has the little handle thing that hangs off it an inch or so.

 

Cool. We're on the same page.

I went 13/47 sprockets and didn't have to flip it over, but mine is only on 1 or 2 setting to begin with, so maybe that's why. My rear wheel is pretty far forward.

 

Ya, I wonder if the 47 rear sprocket is big enough so you don't have to go all the way up to 7 on the adjuster, which would allow you not to have the part on the adjuster hit the bolt that holds the chain guard on. Might be why you never ran into this issue.

 

Has more to do with chain length. I believe I have a 108 link chain rather than 110, so to have proper chain tension I need my rear wheel up close... which I prefer anyways for the offroad I do.

 

I have a 108 link chain as well.

 

May be of interest...

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...-length-42553/