Got my dynojet and fmf in the mail yesterday.. Bike was running flawlessly before I tore it apart lol.. So something I did messed it up.. im running the stage 2 settings which is what the manual recommended.. Thing is I cant get it to idle right.. It either wants to idle at about 2,300 or a very small adjustment of the idle screw makes it want to idle 1,000-1,100 and then it will stall at that point.. I have the fuel screw out about 2.5 turns... Not sure what to do other than pull the carb back out but that is a major pain in the butt!! Any ideas what might be causing this?

 

Yep you've got Murphy laughing out loud ..You're not the first nor the last.... So when you find out what you did wrong, please post it..This is my troubleshooting thread , https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...s-fixes-43146/

 

Possibly trying to set the idle too low. I put in the KLX300 jetting (40 pilot 2-1/2 turns out, N1TC needle second notch, and a 125 main) fired the bike up and all was fine. It idles happily around 2000, but nothing horrible about that. My 650 idles at around 1250. Any lower and the automatic compression release will start to kick in on the 650.

By the way I knew the 2-1/2 turns would be good, my brother already did his before I did and it was fine.

Now find your best idle mix in general and set idle:

• Get the bike at idle, whatever it may take,
• Then turn the idle mix screw in until the idle starts to drop,
• Now counting the turns or fractions there of, turn the idle mix screw out until the idle starts to drop.
• Your setting is at the half way point back. Eg.: Two turns to drop, turn back one turn.
• NOTE, if it takes over 2.5 turns you need to put in a richer pilot. Too many turns can have the spring tension on the screw too low possibly allowing the screw to back out and even fall out.
• Now set your idle where it works and will take throttle - remember it isn't big multi-cylinder engine, it won't idle at 1000 rpm.

Singles need a bit more rpm to keep from stalling as most singles will do at too low an rpm. They also may cough, not take throttle easily if the idle is too low. Again if the 650 is idling below 1200 rpm I have to work the throttle to bring it up, at 1250 rpm it takes throttle pretty well.

As said and worth repeating, my KLX650 single idles at 1250 rpm, my jetted KLX250 idles around 2000 rpm. It really doesn't hurt an engine that can spin 10,000 rpm to idle at 2000 rpm. Maybe when I put the pipe on it with a bit more volume I might try turning it down a bit - or not.

 

Check the float level. Here is some one with the same issue
https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...em-help-42275/

 

I forget if the drain line is clear. If it is you can pull it out up beside the carb, open the drain, and the line should fill to the float level. I'm thinking TNC once mentioned that.

 

Ramitt, it is possible you borked your float system during the wrenching session - So, you should check it before you remove the carb - use the "clear tube" method to see if the fuel level is .5mm above the bowl-to-carb body mating surface (plus or minus 1mm) with the bike upright. This is the easiest way to learn if the float system is causing your problem.. Another way would be if the carb leaks fuel all over the ground while just sitting still with engine off..

 

Well I believe during the time it was sitting on the workbench it got knocked off and no one seems to know anything about it. Go figure!. Where the main jet goes there is a small hairline crack in the stem that is part of the carb. So it looks like I need a new carb... Now who has a good used one?

 

Check with this guy:

https://www.kawasakiforums.com/forum...nything-42998/

He said he had one available still when I asked.

Otherwise you might be better off going with a TM36-68 - just be sure to record your set up and troubleshooting as we need more data on people with stock displacement engines running these carbs

 

Ramitt, I don't know where your located (altitude?) or what mods your bike is carrying, but if you decide to investigate using the TM36-68, Richard Avatar has data and knowledge using it on a stock bore..

 

I'd love to get the pumper carb but won't spend 300 on it. I bought this bike as a temp thing to hold me over till I find a nice 450. The deal I got it for I couldn't pass it up with 4,600 miles on it! I hate to put a lot of money into something I don't plan to keep for the long run. I'd rather put the 300 towards a clutch kit on my outlander