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Mule 610 battery change now lights are acting weird

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  #1  
Old 02-15-2017, 12:58 PM
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Question Mule 610 battery change now lights are acting weird

My 610 Mule issue with light after installing new battery.... prior to installing a new battery I tried to "jump" my Mule with a battery charger set to "Start".... when doing so I expected the lights to come on but they didn't.... I thought it might be an ignition switch issue at first but then I tested the battery and it was only showing 5v and my charger indicated it was no good.... so naturally I start with changing the battery....I got the Mule started..... strangley now my head lights and brake lights only come on when I turn the key to the "start" position.... after the engine starts and the key returns to the "on" position the lights go out..... Kawasaki seems to think I have something wired backwards but the only thing I did was change the battery.... I'm suspect of the ignition switch but Kawasaki is doubtful.... an help would be appreciated... thank you beforehand
 
  #2  
Old 05-18-2017, 11:35 PM
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Hi ,
Check the Negative battery Cable , There Is Single black Wire W/ yellow Stripe
Connected to the cable end bolt . This wire is the Entire Wire Harness Negative Ground
back to the battery. It is wrapped To the Neg. Cable Sometimes , very easy to break .
Hope This helps.....
later,
Mark
 
  #3  
Old 05-19-2017, 01:49 PM
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Thanks for the response..... I'll check it out and let you know.
 
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Old 05-19-2017, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by CrashWrench4010
Hi ,
Check the Negative battery Cable , There Is Single black Wire W/ yellow Stripe
Connected to the cable end bolt . This wire is the Entire Wire Harness Negative Ground
back to the battery. It is wrapped To the Neg. Cable Sometimes , very easy to break .
Hope This helps.....
later,
Mark

didn't work..... any other ideas?
 
  #5  
Old 05-21-2017, 10:48 AM
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Exclamation Part 1

Hi,
Don't Get Pissed At My Question(s) .....
First , Was the Battery ''HOOKED UP Backward's (( Polarity Reversed )) ???
Ok,Ok , Had To ask.... Some Batteries Are made with the Terminals/ Connections """REVERSED""" ( The Batteries Look the SAME , SAME SIZE /
DIMENSIONS !!! ,,, LOCATION OF THE TERMINALS !!! ...
The Only Way To Tell ,,, Is To Physically LOOK At The Battery , Also The PART# ( Example _- # 0000R ) The ' R ' Means The Terminals/ Connections
(( BATTERY_ - _ + Polarity )) !!! ARE REVERSED !!!!!
This Happens More Than You Think !!!!!!!!!!!
 
  #6  
Old 05-21-2017, 11:33 AM
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Exclamation Part 2

Hi ,
Let's Check The Charging System ,
I was Told The 610 and a 3010 Mule with the Gas Engine , Share
The Same Electrical/ Charging System ...
Ok, ( I Don't Have A 610 Service manual , But I Have a 3010 (w/v-twin Gas ) Service Manual ) ...
Tool Need ; A Good Multi - Meter
My Manual Shows the Everything goes to ( THRU )
the "" Voltage Regulator """
The Manual Shows how to Test the Built In Alternator in the Engine .
next , To Test the Voltage Regulator .
 
  #7  
Old 05-21-2017, 12:52 PM
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Exclamation Part 3

Hi,
Let's Start With Location Of Parts : Behind the Battery , ( Starting At Twelve O'Clock ) : At-12 : Starter Relay ,, At-2 : Fuel Pump Relay ,, At-3 : Ignition Igniter , At- 9 - : Charging Regulator/ Rectifier .
((( WARNING !!!! ___---___ Disconnecting The Battery While The Engine
IS Running !!!!!!! WILL DAMAGE THE CHARGING // ELECTRCAL SYSTEM !!!!!!!!!! ))))) .

Check And Test All Fuses ( I Mean Pull The Fuses And Clean the Contacts )
Ok, ( Battery Disconnected and Set out of the way ,, < Set It on A Trickle Charger > ) .
Disconnect the Charging Stator Lead ( 3- Wire ) On the Engine , Take Your " Multi- Meter ( set To OHMMETER ) Probe the 2 outer wires in the Connector , The Stator Coil Resistance :: 0.2 - 0.4 ohms .. If The Meter does not Read as Spec's ,, Replace Stator .. If Stator is Ok ,, The Magnets Can Get Probably Weakened ,, Replace Rotor ...
 
  #8  
Old 05-21-2017, 02:54 PM
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Default Part4

Hi,
This Is from my 3010 Mule , I was Told the 610 and the 3010 W/ The
(KAW. ) V-Twin Gas Engine Share The Same Charging /Electrical System .
Tools ,, Multi-Meter , Writing Pad And Pencil Ready ???
Got your Shop manual yet ???????????
Remove the " Regulator " Set it on the Work bench , Cooling Fins ^ Up .
The Terminal plug lock up . Terminals Are : ( 12 o'clock ) ..
at-10 "W' , at-12 " BR " , at-2 "BK/Y " ... at-8 " BK1 " , at-6 "BK2 ,
at-4 "BK3 " ...
Test Meter Set to "OHMMETER" Red Lead To " W " Term. , Black Lead To
" BK1 " , next Black to " BK2 " , Next Black to " BK3 "
Write Down your Findings .... Now Swap Leads , Repeat test Write down
Findings ...
 
  #9  
Old 05-21-2017, 03:39 PM
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Lightbulb Part 5

Hi ,
This Is Bull ,, I Keep Getting TIMED OUT!!!!!!!!! ( Cannot Type fast )
Ok ,,,,
The First half of the test is done ,, Now ,, Red Test Lead Hooked to ::
" BK/Y " , Black lead to "BK1" , Next Black Lead To "BK2 " , Next Black lead to " BK3 " .. Write down your findings ,, Swap Leads,, Retest ,, Compare?
The Readings Should be Low in one Direction ,,> If ANY TWO Terminals
ARE Low Or HIGH In BOTH DIRECTIONS,
THE REGULATOR IS DEFECTIVE ..............
Last Thing Is Checking Ground to frame Connections ( Shop Manual ???? )
The Engine Is In a Rubber Mounted Cradle , So The Main Black ground Cable
Is Mounted To the Engine Under The Starter . ( To Run Starter Only )
Ground for Alternator/ Stator Grounds thru its Terminal Connector ...
The Ground for ignition goes thru its own connector , Respectively ...


Whew , Hope This Helps ...
Later ,
Mark
 
  #10  
Old 05-21-2017, 03:48 PM
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Before Buying Parts ,,, Let Us Test , Dirty Hands Time,
" Got / GET Your Service/ Shop Manual """"" ?????????
 
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