This mod removes the redline & fuel cutoff limitation to pass EPA noise level limits. It's definitely worth it for 05-06 ZX6R/RR's. It's the quickest and cheapest horsepower you can get. It only works for 05-06 models.

Here's how:

To convert/ Modyour 2005-2006 North American ECU to Euro spec ECU you will need to find the dead end 4 wire plug or cap under the front seat (look for a connector with 4 little rubber plugs on one end). It will be taped *black tape* to the cable under it.

Open the connector up and locate where the black w/yellow stripe wire and aqua w/green stripe wire terminate. You can either stick in a wire jumper to connect these two wire ends together or pull out the appropriate plugs and use proper spade connectors in the cap to complete the circuit. Whatever you do, make sure it's isolated from other wires and the frame or anywhere it could ground on.

Put everything back together, start it up and let it warm up, then take it out for a test ride. Remember that it will only make a difference at 13k rpm and up, won't make a bit of difference below that and it won't sound any different either. Now go find a person with an '05 and a slip-on and show him what he missed. Oh - I almost forgot, no FI light problem either.
Well there you all go, talk about cheap horsepower! There is no ill effects on your bike by doing this (that I am aware of anyway) but just make sure that you remove the jumper before you take it to the dealer!!

Enjoy the mod & extra Horsepower!

 

Bump.

 

wow that is a great mod...when i am able to get the time to do this i will go try it......where can i find a jumper for it??? can i just go to any regular hardware store to get some...like ace hardware???

another thing is to isolate it from the other wires and frame would i just keep it tapped to the other wire on the bottom??? or should i just electrical tape the entire plug and the wire seperatly???

 

There is a detailed DIY above here for this. Read On or do a search for more info. The 07-08 ZX6R ECU mod is the same which is posted here too.There is a cap on the connectorso nothing will be grounded.

 

okay so far so good...i was cheap and used an aluminum paper clip and alot of electrical tape...i did though tape it back to the area where i found it because i didn't want it sticking up and catching on something...[8D]

going to test it out tomorrow but right now just idleing it i don't see any fi light or anything...

 

is there any tricks besides the 2nd dary flies on the zx 14

 

well either it is a figment of my imagination or my fi light comes on after some riding...i do have the metal stopper provided by yoshimura along with the pipe...i heard that if you have the stopper it won't work is this true...because i just took off the seat and i had to take out the paper clip because it wasn't looking good...everytime i downshifted the fi light turned off and evertime i upshifted it went off but when i coasted for awhile and then accelerated alot it would turn on with the fi light so i am thinking this mod won't work for me....ohh well...

 

It's not the mod that's not working. Wrap a Zip-tie around the Block of the exhaust valve where the cables went to give a couple of extra thousandths of less rotation to the cam. That should solve the FI light problem and ay cycling or fluttering of the servo..

 

Thanks for the tip

 

a quick note in light of another's question on here..

Dynojet suggtest using U.S. maps, not uro Maps when doing this mod and running a power commander. i spoke with them on this question and they said that those maps are designed with euro-grade fuel in mind.. not american.. theres varuances in chemistry evisently and a euro map will act differently.. possibly not well, if a jumper mod is present.

as far as a jumper is concerned, you can pretty much use anything conductive.